Discover Trunyan’s Unique Wind Burial Tradition on Lake Batur’s Shores

Looking for a different side of the Island of the Gods, one steeped in ancient magic? Head to Trunyan Village in Kintamani District, home to the Bali Aga—the island’s original inhabitants with customs distinct from mainstream Balinese society. Perched right on the edge of Lake Batur in Bangli Regency, this village draws global attention for its striking “wind burial” practice known as Mepasah.

Here, bodies aren’t cremated in the typical Ngaben ceremony or buried underground. Instead, they’re simply laid out on the open ground. Remarkably, despite being exposed, they emit no foul odor. Credit goes to a massive Taru Menyan tree, whose powerful natural fragrance masks the decomposition process.

The village name “Trunyan” derives from “Taru,” meaning tree, and “Menyan,” meaning fragrant. This natural marvel has endured for centuries, symbolizing the deep harmony between humans and nature, fiercely guarded by locals.

Mepasah Custom Rules and the Three Burial Sites
Not every body in Trunyan qualifies for placement under the Taru Menyan tree, despite the open-air fame. Locals enforce strict criteria based on the cause of death and the individual’s social status in life.

Three distinct cemetery sites, or sema, serve different purposes. The primary one, Sema Wayah, sits under the sacred tree for those who died naturally, were married, and had complete bodies. Corpses here are enclosed only by simple bamboo mats called ancak saji. Sema Bantas handles unnatural deaths, like accidents or suicides.

The third, Sema Muda, is reserved for infants, children, or unmarried adults. This division reflects Trunyan society’s intricate respect for every life stage and death. Notably, the main site holds just 11 bodies at a time; newcomers displace the oldest bones to the side.

Barong Brutuk: Kintamani’s Rare Sacred Dance
Beyond burials, Trunyan boasts a scarce performance art called Barong Brutuk. Unlike typical Balinese barongs, this one features a solo dancer in a costume of sanctified dried banana leaves. It represents the village’s spiritual rulers: Ratu Sakti Pancering Jagat and Ida Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem Dasar.

Performances occur only during the Ngusaba ceremony at Pura Pancering Jagat, usually on the fourth full moon of the Balinese calendar. Twenty-one young villagers prepare through 42 days of quarantine and purification at the temple, avoiding moral taboos to preserve the dance’s sanctity.

Far from mere entertainment, Barong Brutuk passes down noble values, embodying the union of masculine and feminine forces for cosmic balance. Lucky visitors witness an intensely sacred atmosphere, worlds apart from commercial shows.

Location and How to Reach Trunyan Village
Trunyan lies at the foot of Mount Abang on Lake Batur’s eastern shore. Reach it by motorboat from Kedisan Village dock in Kintamani, crossing calm waters with views of lush cliffs and hills before docking at the quiet village jetty.

Administratively in Bangli Regency, it’s far from Bali South’s tourist bustle. From Denpasar, the two-hour drive winds through scenic roads. Highland chill calls for warm clothes. Boat rentals from Kedisan often include access to the main cemetery, with Mount Batur looming majestically mid-lake.

Etiquette and Tips for Visiting Trunyan’s Traditional Sites
Respect is key in this sacred place. Dress modestly and follow local guides or elders’ instructions at the cemeteries. Never touch or move items in the sema, including coins or personal offerings near bodies.

Human skulls lined up may tempt photographers, but always ask permission first. Locals’ warmth shines when visitors honor their ancestral ways.

Trunyan redefines death and humanity’s eternal bond with nature. It’s no mere tourist spot but a living cultural laboratory, preserved amid modernity.

Feel the Mystical Peace of Trunyan, Bali
Witnessing neatly arranged skulls free of stench under the Taru Menyan canopy leaves an indelible spiritual mark. In Kintamani’s slopes, Trunyan fuses ancient history and nature’s wonders in serene harmony.

Indonesianpost.com | Antara